Sri Lanka on a budget

Which is why the honest headline is not a daily figure at all. Living here is astonishingly cheap. The budget is decided almost entirely by how many of the big sites you buy tickets for.

The Sri Lankan guesthouse is the best-value accommodation in South Asia and it barely exists on the big booking sites at the bottom end. A family with three rooms and a garden charges fifteen to twenty-five dollars for a double with a fan and a private bathroom, and the mother of the house will cook you a rice and curry for another three that is better than anything you will pay thirty for.

• Book the first night online, then ask that family who they know in the next town. This is how the guesthouse network actually works and it is consistently cheaper than any site.
• Fan rooms are half the price of air conditioning and in the hills you do not need either. Nuwara Eliya and Ella are cold at night.
• Ask for the price for a longer stay. Three nights almost always attracts a discount that is never advertised.
• Hostels exist in Ella, Mirissa, Weligama, Kandy, Arugam Bay and Colombo, and largely do not elsewhere. Outside those towns, guesthouses are the budget option.
• The homestay in a hill village at $12 with dinner included will be the night you remember. It is also the one that is impossible to find in advance from another country.

Find the place with no English sign, a steel counter and a queue of men at one o'clock. Ask for rice and curry. You will get rice with five or six vegetable curries, a papadam, a sambol and as many refills of the vegetables as you want, for between one and three dollars. This is the national lunch and it is one of the great cheap meals anywhere.

• Kottu — chopped roti fried on a griddle with vegetables, egg or chicken. You hear it being made from two streets away. About $2–3.
• Hoppers, in the early morning and after dark. A bowl-shaped rice pancake, sometimes with an egg in it. Twenty to fifty cents each; three is a meal.
• Short eats — the tray of fried snacks on every bus-station counter. Point at things. Under fifty cents each.
• Fruit from a stall rather than a shop. A whole pineapple, cut, for well under a dollar.
• A large Lion lager is about $2 in a shop and $4–5 in a restaurant. Alcohol is taxed heavily and is the one thing here that is not cheap.

Worth cutting

• Air conditioning. Fan rooms are half the price and in the hills you want a blanket, not a compressor.
• Bottled water. A filter bottle pays for itself in five days and the plastic problem here is visible from every beach.
• Internal flights. There are barely any, and the road takes as long once you count the transfers.
• Pre-booked package transfers. A local bus and a tuk-tuk at the far end costs a tenth as much.
• One of the two big ancient cities. Polonnaruwa or Anuradhapura, not both, unless ruins are why you came.

Not worth cutting

• Travel insurance. Medical care here is good and private hospitals are cheap by Western standards, but a repatriation is not.
• A guide at Anuradhapura or Polonnaruwa. Twenty dollars turns a field of brickwork into a thousand years of history.
• The Dambulla caves. Ten dollars for the best single site on the island by value.
• A helmet, if you are hiring a scooter or a tuk-tuk. This is the most likely way for your trip to go badly wrong.
• The last two hours of daylight at Galle Fort or on any beach. Free, and the reason people come back.

• Sri Lanka runs on cash outside hotels and city restaurants. Guesthouses, buses, tuk-tuks, kades and park gates are all cash.
• ATMs are everywhere in towns and charge a local fee of roughly LKR 400–600 per withdrawal on top of whatever your own bank charges. Take out larger amounts less often.
• Airside currency counters at Colombo airport give better rates than the arrivals hall. Change enough for the first two days there.
• Cards work at hotels, supermarkets and larger restaurants. Assume they do not work anywhere else.
• Keep small notes. Nobody at a bus stand or a roadside stall can change a 5,000-rupee note at eight in the morning.